This isn’t the first time a childlike obsession has captured the adult consumer. From the Beanie Baby obsession of the ’90s, to the 2016 Pokémon Go craze (which saw us all momentarily preoccupied with capturing virtual Pokémon in our offices, in parks, or on trains) or the rise of Barbiecore in 2023, throughout history, adults periodically revert to their youth and go crazy over toy characters.
Labubu isn’t the only trending toy item right now, either. At Selfridges, soft toy manufacturer Jellycat is the fastest-selling toy brand — the retailer sold a Jellycat every 15 seconds during the 2024 festive period. Meanwhile, other Pop Mart ‘blind box’ toys, from the Crybaby to the fantasy-inspired Hirono, are gaining traction in the West, too. Just last week, £150,000 worth of Hirono stock was stolen in a truck robbery in the UK, according to Pop Mart managing director and head of Europe Peter Shipman, “which speaks to its demand”.
As more and more adults queue up at the latest Labubu drop, buy them on resale for hundreds of pounds on Ebay or Depop, and even affix them to their Hermès Birkins, it begs the question: WTF is going on?
Speaking to fans and experts, it turns out that while esoteric, the Labubu and the toy craze in general has a lot to teach us about today’s luxury consumer.
Comfort in dark times
“With everything going on in the world right now and so much uncertainty, people are seeking out experiences and items that bring comfort, happiness and a sense of playfulness,” says Shipman. “Labubu and the whole Pop Mart range offers a little pocket of escapism, something charming and reassuring to carry with you.”
“Labubu and the whole Pop Mart range offers a little pocket of escapism, something charming and reassuring to carry with you.”
Harrods launched Labubu in November 2024, and in March this year launched a Labubu pop-up with an appearance from Labubu designer Kasing Lung. Due to demand, they’ve extended the pop-up for a further four months. Audiences are grappling with a bleak economy, climate chaos and diminishing purchasing power as they mature. In this context, the Labubus and the collectibles mindset offers a form of escapism, says Harrods head of toys buying Kate Woodhead. “There has been an undeniable increase in “kidult” customers in recent years, with what seems like a real appetite for nostalgia, joy and perhaps a simpler time,” she notes. “Consider the effect of movies like Barbie or Minecraft — all born from toy trends that are appealing to a much broader adult market.” The rise of the Jellycat also really speaks to this trend, she adds.