From fuzzy keychains to dangling plushies, bag add-ons have become the latest must-have accessory – again.
What currently comes to mind are the scores of Labubu dolls everyone is obsessing over.
Yet, this is far from a novel concept in fashion.
Such adornments have long been used to personalise carryalls, tell stories, or simply add a playful touch to an outfit.
Jane Birkin (yes, the late actress who has a world-famous bag named after her) was known to dress up whatever she carried, using items like scarves, stickers and keychains.
Within the fashion circles, this enduring trend came to be known as “Jane Birkinifying”.
Jane always had a laissez-faire attitude to styling.
She liked giving a personalised touch to whatever she wore.
Today, you can find countless tips online on how to achieve that same effortlessly individual look.
Just a few years ago, TikTok users began reviving the trend of wrapping silk scarves on bag handles.
Also remember how Karl Lagerfeld sent out models down the runway with a fuzzy charm (the Fendi monster) back in 2013?
Those cute accessories became so popular that various other fashion houses soon followed suit.
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The finer attachments
The Labubu craze itself is not exactly new either.
It first took off across Asia some time ago, but is only now starting to capture attention in the West.
“I think it was around early 2024 that the hype took off here,” comments Malaysian designer Khoon Hooi.
He says that he owns one, which was given to him by a customer, but he does not collect them.
“Not exactly my kind of thing, I would say. I did enjoy it for a short time, when everyone first started buying them,” he relates.
From a designer’s point of view, bag charms are something of a boon – they offer endless opportunities for creative expression and brand storytelling.
Khoon Hooi even goes so far as to say they are a moneymaking accessory, simple to produce yet capable of commanding premium prices when tied to the right brand or character.
“Small accessories generally sell faster,” he notes, though his label does not offer a range of bag charms at the moment.
Looking back over the years, it is clear that major brands have all dabbled in this charm offensive.
Fendi released a second bag charm in 2015 – named Karlito, which took on the likeness of Lagerfeld and quickly became a hit, with celebrities snapping it up and flaunting it on their designer totes.
Other iconic examples include Burberry’s Thomas Bear charm, Hermes’ Rodeo Pegase PM charm and Louis Vuitton’s Micro Vanity Bag Charm.
A doll to rule them all
Lisa of Blackpink played a major role in driving Labubu’s popularity.
The fictional character first appeared a decade ago as part of a series of illustrated books and collectible figurines, but it was not until the K-pop star shared Instagram snaps of her Labubu-themed accessories in 2024 that fans across Asia really took notice.
“I fell in love with the doll’s cute likeness after I saw Lisa carrying it on her bag,” says Jason Phang, a Malaysian collector. “It instantly became something I had to have.”
Phang reveals that he has spent over RM1,000 for his Labubu dolls.
He, however, also collects other in-demand figurines like Skullpanda, Crybaby and Dimoo.
“I believe that when we grow older, most of us forget how to embrace our inner child. A Labubu can somehow remind us of that playful, carefree spirit we once had,” he explains.
About a decade ago, fashion houses were already playing up bag charms as a cute trend to follow. Photo: FendiOn whether the doll is a fashion accessory or a toy, he says it can be both: “If bags represent our style, I think a Labubu works to also represent our character and how we dress.”
In the US, the Labubu craze took off when pop sensation Rihanna was spotted having one attached to her bag early this year.
Soon after that, other celebrities like Dua Lipa, Kim Kardashian and Simone Biles started sharing pictures of their collections on social media.
Read more: The latest fashion trend sees people wearing hats over stockings…
K-wave influence?
The fact that Lisa is credited with turning Labubu into a sensation speaks volumes about the power of the K-wave.
Perhaps the bag charm trend itself finds its roots in fandom communities.
“It has always been a thing for us to have stuffed toys that resemble our idols. We would hang it on our bags,” says one Malaysian K-pop fan, who goes by Marisa.
She explains that these items are either officially produced merchandise or fan-made creations.
“I think it isn’t a fashion statement, but it still reflects our personal styles,” Marisa, not a Labubu fan, points out.
That said, K-pop stars are again putting Labubu in the spotlight.
Singer and actor Kim Jae-joong recently shared a Labubu version of himself given by a fan on social media.
“Now I feel like I should get into this whole Labubu thing!” Marisa exclaims. “But, I want the specific Labubu that Jae-joong has.”
And there you have it – this could very well be the third coming of the doll’s moment in the spotlight, fuelled by fandom and a whole lot of K-pop star power.
Bear in mind, though, bag charms as a trend never truly went away.
From “Jane Birkinifying” to runway cameos and designer reinterpretations, they’ve always had a place in fashion’s accessory lexicon.